Tailgating at Timkit

Every year, two weeks after the Ethiopian Christmas is a holiday called Timkit. Timkit is the Ethiopian version of the Epiphany (or baptism of Christ). Here, it is a grand celebration that occurs “down by the river” in all corners of Ethiopia. It starts in the evening as the sun begins its descent in the sky. A crowd of people form a processional from the orthodox church in Chiri to a river valley in a place called Kuti (see the attached picture).

Many Ethiopians spend the full two days and two nights at the river to enjoy the whole celebration. I was only able to make it down for part of one day. Erin was busy preparing and cleaning a guest house for her parents’ upcoming visit (she’s quite the host, as many of you know), so I went alone with two of the orphans guiding me to this hidden festival in the woods. We walked quickly down into a lush valley, and after an hour, we were there.

The rain was relentless in the early morning that day and had finally let up upon our arrival. I envisioned a crew of sopping wet people drying off in a pack in the late morning sun. Instead I stumbled across a lively crowd of merrymaking Ethiopians singing, dancing, and relaxing. As I crept into the open field near the river, I felt like an explorer (I know that sounds corny) discovering an unknown village. All around me were basic housing structures made with bamboo and wood and covered by giant leaves or tarps for makeshift roofs.

I stumbled upon one of the larger open-air “houses” and found several Lalmba employees relaxing and enjoying some beers and local honey-wine. They graciously offered me a beer…and then another one, and my relaxation began to set in. It almost felt like I was tailgating, albeit at quite a unique “concert”. The drumbeats and dance circles didn’t let up for the several hours I stayed; the mood was extremely festive. It was one of those moments where you feel a warmth rise inside you and you are simply happy to be alive.

I asked my Ethiopian friends more about Timkit and learned that every year, this little village is constructed for these two days alone. When the celebration ends, the field is abandoned. Within a few days, all these “houses” would be flattened and used as firewood for cooking in the surrounding villages. And next year and the year after and so on, the building of this village for two glorious days “down by the river” will continue to take place.